Last Monday we just arrived back from one week in Paris. And what to say it was incredible. Paris in September is always so inspiring – the fall collections have arrived in store, breathtaking exhibitions like AD Interieurs and the Biennale des Antiquaires et de la Haute Joaillerie open their doors, all the restaurants reopen after the big summer break and many of the stores like Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche organize cool events to draw customers to the retail floors. On the other hand the woman’s summer collections for 2015 are in full run. At the moment they are in Milan and next Tuesday they go into the last round hitting Paris. So what to start with? Fall 2014 trends and shopping tips? Inspirations from our Paris trip? Streetstyle and runway news from fashion month? Maybe I start with the thing that’s still most present in my mind …

For the 27th Biennale des Antiquaires YSL’s favorite interior designer Jacques Grange designed a layout inspired by the gardens of Chateau des Versailles. To round up the experience Francis Kukurdjian design a special scent for the perfumed fountain at the entrance, pic taken by CKM

The central aisle from the back of the Grand Palais. It would have been worth the visit just to see Jacques Grange’s outstanding set design, photo taken by CKM

So incredible! photo taken by CKM

…its the Haute Joaillerie displays during the Biennale. In general it was my first time at the Biennale des Antiquaires et de la Haute Joaillerie in Paris. Immediately after entering the Grand Palais I was captivated by the whole atmosphere. The set was designed by renowned French interior decorator Jacques Grange taking inspiration from the gardens of Versailles. To further enhance this incredible atmosphere the entrance fountain was perfumed by with a scent especially developed by Francis Kurkdjian for the occasion of the Biennale.

The Chanel pavillon at the Biennale des Antiquaires, where the fall 2014 Haute Joaillerie line “Cafe Society” was exhibited, photo taken by CKM

Among the many Haute Joaillerie brands that set up pavillons at the Biennale was Chanel. From previous post you might have recognized my love for the house and its heritage. And besides fashion Chanel also has a considerable history regarding Haute Joaillerie, which traces back to 1932 where Coco Chanel showed her first and only high jewelry line with a star theme. The topic of the houses fall 2014 high jewelry line, just for reference they do 2 collections a year and present them at the end of Haute Couture week to the press, was “Cafe Society” referring to the boheme group of people that is so indicative of the roaring twenties. In contrast to other high jewelry brands like Van Cleef and Arpels or Graff diamonds Chanel’s primary focus is on design and wearability. My favorite set from the current collection was entitled “Morning in Vendome”. Its an incredible Art Deco masterwork of white and yellow diamonds, black onyx set into 18k gold. Furthermore, its really surprisingly wearable and I immediately started to imagine how great bracelet and earrings would look with a simple charcoal pantsuit, a white top and some red lipstick.

My personal standout from Chanels Haute Joaillerie “Morning in Vendome”, photo by CKM

Outstanding art deco jewels at Chanel, photo taken by CKM

… this bracelet was my absolute top. So beautiful and wearable! photo taken by CKM

Besides my strong admiration for beauty and aesthetics of everything ranging from artworks over decorative piece to jewelry and fashion, I usually can’t help to see the investment perspective, I guess that’s something I inherited from my father. So what about increasing value? Well, as said before Chanel Haute Joaillerie is based on design above stones or cutting techniques. Pieces aren’t one of a kind but can be reordered by clients upon request. After Lorenz Bäumer departed from the brand they never named a star design director again. Instead of that the Chanel jewelry line is designed by an anonymous design team called “The Studio of creation”. A situation that’s very similar to the fashion house of Margiela, where the anonymity of the designers is criticized by the fashion press every now and then.

backroom of the Biennale pavilion of Chanel with a picture of Coco herself

So let’s sum up! From an aesthetic point of view “Cafe Society” is a great collection that seems to be more wearable than many other Haute Joaillerie collections. Regarding increase of value the strong design focus in combination with the anonymous design studio as well as the fact that pieces aren’t one of a kind might turn out as a disadvantage.

What’s your opinion about Chanel jewelry? Do you have favorite pieces? What do you think about the Cafe Society collection?